Swimming with the fishes (and turtles and dolphins)

Yesterday was a relaxing day for us -- minimal driving and lots o' snorkeling. We rented a sea kayak Tuesday night and headed across the Kealakekua Bay (where Captain Cook was killed). With apologies to Cook and the colonial British crown, we didn't go for the monument, but the fishes. 

We went late in the evening to miss the boat crowds, which was a good idea. The snorkeling was amazing (though not as good as the Great Barrier Reef). Many fish here -- many yellow fish. Beautiful creatures. 

We had the kayak for 24 hours, so we decided to return the next morning before the boats arrived. First, though, we went to the beach near our condo, where, we were told, sea turtles dwelled. Sadly, the coral had been trampled by too much traffic, but we did find the sea turtles. We arrived early (6:30) before the crowds, so the sea turtles were still around...and very close. The pics above have no zoom at all. We could have touched them -- groovy. I love those creatures. The appear so thoughtful and serene to me. 

After snorkeling here for an hour or so, we headed back to Keal-- Bay. We put in around 8 a.m. and headed across the bay (about a mile). Heather and I did well in the kayak together. The sea was smooth, our communication (and paddling) in sync. Along the way, we had the pleasure of seeing dolphins, then kayaking with them as they came up alongside the boat. When we first saw them, Heather started calling to them, and she believes this made them come to us. She fancies herself something of a Dolphin Whisperer. This experience definitely made her trip. She loved the playful little things.

We snorkeled about an hour near the monument until the multitudes arrived -- boat after boat of eager snorkelers. So, we headed back. Surprise, surprise. The dolphins were still around, and we got near them again. We were surprised they were still around because of the crowds and the time of day. Perhaps they came because of Heather, the Dolphin Whisperer. I wish I could have captured her call. Hilarious! 

Today -- R and R, and a much needed visit to the gym. We also took in a few of the sacred sites preserved around the hotels. We've been doing this many days around the island (you know me and spiritual tourism), so it was interesting to walk through these as well. We've been to several temples, places of refuge, etc. on this trip. It's been an interesting walk though history, and an interesting re-casting of Hawaiian history for the sake of tourists (e.g. Hawaiian history as "our" American heritage, with no recollection of our part in their dispossession). The active dispossession of Hawaiians by Western colonialists has not escaped us, nor has our complicity in this dispossession as we (as willing tourists) eagerly consume these sacred spaces preserved around our comfortable condos. As many of you know, I am often an ambivalent traveler for these very reasons (so many "desirable" locations are directly connected to dispossession). My ambivalence continues. Yet here I am, and there you go. This is, perhaps, an irresolvable contradiction since I enjoy (and see much promise) in travel, but one I continue to grapple with (and, of course, study!) Heather gets to listen to this sort of stuff from me on a daily basis, so I thought I would give you glimpse as well. 

Tomorrow, we meet up with the fam who are en route to Oahu as we speak. We will then embark on our island cruise (I'll spare you the ambivalence I have about this activity). I am unsure what my internet access will be on the boat, so this could my last post. With that possibility, I leave you with a few pics of turtles and dolphins. 

C